Frequently Asked Questions

Fixr's 2025 national ranges put engineered hardwood at about $8 to $14 per square foot installed and solid hardwood at $9 to $23. That works out to roughly $8,000 to $14,000 for 1,000 square feet of engineered and $9,000 to $23,000 for solid, before removing old tile or adding a plywood subfloor over concrete. The number on your written estimate is what you pay.

For wood floors, engineered hardwood is usually the safest choice in Arizona because most homes are on concrete slabs and indoor humidity swings between very dry months and the monsoon. Its layered core moves less than solid wood and can be glued to a slab. Solid hardwood can work over a plywood subfloor with steady climate control. Tile and vinyl are other choices if wood is not the goal.

Using the same Fixr ranges, 2,000 square feet runs about $16,000 to $28,000 for engineered hardwood and $18,000 to $46,000 for solid, installed. Removing existing tile can add $1.50 to $3.25 per square foot. Large open floors often price toward the lower per-foot end, while stairs, borders and many transitions push it up.

Wood shrinks when the air dries out. The Forest Products Laboratory lists Phoenix-area outdoor wood moisture as low as 4.6% in June, and dry indoor air pulls moisture out of the boards. Small seasonal gaps that close during the monsoon are normal. Wide gaps that never close usually mean the wood was not acclimated or the home runs very dry.

Engineered hardwood can, either glued down with an adhesive rated for concrete or floated over an underlayment. Solid hardwood generally cannot be nailed to concrete, so it needs a plywood or sleeper subfloor first, which raises the floor height. In every case the slab has to be tested for moisture before installation.

The City of Scottsdale lists replacing flooring as work that does not need a building permit, unless it affects a pool enclosure or garage. Your HOA or condo association may still require approval or set rules for underlayment and work hours. For anything unusual, call the city's One Stop Shop at 480-312-2500.

Sunlight changes wood color. Cherry darkens, maple and American walnut lighten, and most of the change happens in the first few months. UV-blocking window film, shades during peak sun, and moving rugs now and then help the floor change evenly.

Fixr says a two-person crew usually installs under 1,500 square feet in one to three days. Tile removal, slab grinding and acclimation add time before that, and unfinished wood that is sanded and finished on site needs two to three more days before you walk on it.

Glue-down feels more solid and suits large open rooms and areas with heavy furniture. Floating is faster, easier to replace later, and pairs well with sound underlayment in condos. We recommend one based on the slab, the room size and any HOA rules.

Sometimes, if the tile is flat, well bonded and the added height works at doors and transitions. Often it is better to remove the tile, since loose or hollow tiles under a new floor cause problems later. We check by tapping and measuring during the estimate.

There is no fixed number of days. The goal is for the wood to match the conditions in your home, with the moisture reading close to the subfloor's, as the NWFA describes. We follow the manufacturer's instructions and meter the boards until they are ready.

Fixr's national range for sanding and refinishing is about $3 to $5.50 per square foot, with dustless systems at $6 to $8. Today's Homeowner lists about $2,000 to $4,000 for 1,000 square feet. Stain, stairs and heavy damage add to that.

If the top wood layer is thick enough, yes. Thin veneers may only take a screen and recoat. We check the layer before recommending a full sand.

Light sock traffic is often possible within a day of the last coat with many water-based finishes, but furniture and rugs need longer. The exact times depend on the product, and we give you a written schedule.

A full sand removes the faded surface and evens the color. The wood will still respond to sunlight afterward, so window film or shades help keep it even.

Yes. The surface is a layer of real hardwood, such as oak or hickory, and the core is made of wood layers too. It is different from laminate or vinyl, which only show a printed image of wood.

It depends on the wear layer. Thicker layers can be sanded and refinished; thin layers may only allow a light screen and recoat. Check the product's wear layer before buying if future refinishing matters to you.

Generally yes. The cross-layered core limits how much the plank shrinks and swells, so gaps and cupping are less common. It still needs acclimation and reasonable indoor humidity.

National guides put it around $7.50 to $14 per square foot installed. Slab grinding, tile removal and trim are added costs that we list separately.

Yes. Individual boards can be removed and replacements laced into the surrounding floor. How well they blend depends on the match and the finish, and sometimes the room needs a recoat or refinish to even it out.

Cupping means more moisture is getting into the bottom of the boards than the top. In slab homes, look for leaks, wet concrete or water entering at doors. The cause must be fixed before repairs.

Mild cupping can flatten once the moisture source is gone and the floor dries. Sanding before it dries can leave the boards crowned later, so we wait for dry readings.

Fixr lists board replacement at about $4 to $10 per square foot. Water damage repairs cost more, and matching an old or discontinued floor can add time.

HomeAdvisor's 2026 guide puts new wood stairs between $100 and $300 a step; most full staircases land from $1,800 to $6,300. Oak is near the lower end; walnut and cherry cost more.

Some engineered products have matching stair nosing and treads. Thin planks are not usually strong enough as treads alone, so solid treads stained to match are common.

Usually not. Stairs built for carpet have rough treads that were never meant to show. They are covered with new hardwood treads and risers instead.

A typical staircase takes a few days for fitting plus time for stain and finish to cure. We give you the schedule in the quote.

A screen and recoat only scuffs and renews the top finish. Refinishing sands to bare wood, removes deep damage and allows a color change. A recoat costs less and takes less time but fixes less.

It depends on traffic, pets and shoes indoors. Many busy homes recoat every few years, once the finish looks dull in traffic paths but before the wood shows wear.

Often, with the right prep. Factory finishes can be hard for new coats to grip, so we use a bonding step and always test a hidden spot first.

Fixr lists about $1 to $2.50 per square foot nationally; a complete sanding typically costs two to three times as much.